Yesterday, the Younger Child and I were walking down 8th Street when we stopped to peer in the window of Bibou. Charlotte Calmels, co-owner of Bibou and wife of the chef, Pierre Calmels, saw me and came out to give me a copy of the menu and chat about children. She also told me it was their opening night.
Bibou is in the former home of the dearly departed Pif, our old favorite restaurant. When Pif opened in 2001, we were terribly excited to have a French restaurant only two stumbly blocks from our house. And not just a French restaurant, but a really good French restaurant. I ate the foie gras and escargot at Pif many times. I had a memorable birthday there with two of my favorite people. At that dinner, a large table of oenophiles sat next to us and when they left, they gave us a few half bottles of very good wine. Better than I had ever had. Another time, Rex and I had the Chef's Meal for two at the bar and the surfeit of rich food nearly killed him. Good times.
So we were excited once again when we saw activity in the old Pif spot. And let me tell you, Bibou lives up to its predecessor.
We couldn't miss the opportunity to eat there on the first night, so I biked to the liquor store for a bottle of Lunetta prosecco (I like it, though Rex finds it a little too fruity) and made arrangements for the children. We didn't have much more than an hour to eat, but we were determined to make the most of it.
We started with an amuse bouche of chopped raw oyster and mackerel with a bit of cilantro and lime juice, like a ceviche, but not marinated for long. It was amazing. Rex is going to try to replicate it.
We didn't really have time for an entree, although they all sounded tempting (especially the pigs' feet stuffed with foie gras, and the duck with honey and lavender sauce), so we ordered four appetizers. The escargot ragout with fava beans and tarragon was good, although I'm still partial to the Pif escargot. The rabbit rillettes, served in round chilled slices, was full of delicious bunny goodness. The morel fricassee was delicious, its creamy sauce was an excellent sop for the very good house-baked bread. The foie gras, seared and served with grilled mango and what looked like scrapple but was more like a cinnamony cornbread, was beyond the beyond. While eating it, I couldn't concentrate on what Rex was talking about. Probably an obscure band.
We finished off the bottle of prosecco and ran home, but not before deciding on the theme of my birthday celebration this year. Inspired by what we hope is the first of many delicious meals at Bibou, my party will feature prosecco and pâté. I cannot wait!
*****
Bibou is located at 1009 South 8th Street - 215-965-8290 - BYOB - Cash only
